Showing posts with label Peruvian. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Peruvian. Show all posts

Thursday, February 26, 2009

El Pollo Rico - Does it Live Up to the Hype?

Frequented by both cops and models, Arlington's El Pollo Rico is known as the place in DC for Peruvian-style rotisserie chicken. After having sampled a few of its competitors around town, I finally made it out to Arlington with Mistress KGB, our photographer, and Tintin in tow, eager to find out if El Pollo's chicken wares were worth the raves.

None of us had been to El Pollo Rico before, and a friend had described the exterior as resembling that of a dry cleaner, which surprisingly turned out to be a spot on observation. The industrial illusion turned out to be appropriate, as inside, the lines were long and the counter-staff were churning out chickens like a factor assembly line. Place your order–quarter, half, or whole–and bam, it's plopped down almost immediately in front of you.

Now normally, such quickly-produced food would warrant some suspicion. Perhaps these chicks had been sitting under a heat lamp and all the moisture had been sucked out. But alas, the food lived up to the hype. This chicken was thoroughly juicy, almost bordering on being too moist. The rotisserie flavors were strong and blunt, with a surprising, tangy edge that I hadn't experienced so fully at other chicken joints.

Tintin and I agreed that the chicken was indeed really good, making it easy for El Pollo Rico's chicken to rank as the best I've had in DC. Mistress KGB concurred, but claimed her favorite place in Falls Church produced equally good food.

Unfortunately, the accoutrements disappointed slightly. No traditional yuca fries were offered; instead stock french fries were served in their place. Normally, Cisco fries (if that's what they were) aren't my idea of good cooking, but these seem to have been cooked/thawed in the same grease and seasonings as the chicken, so they were surprisingly serviceable.

The coleslaw was forgettable, but the sauces were downright terrible. Almost more than the main dishes, I love the little green and white sauces that come with Peruvian fast food. I have no idea what they're called, but I expect them to be savory and spicy. The sauces at El Pollo Rico were too thick, bland, and almost inedible. Steer clear and opt for some ketchup instead, if you need some sauce for your fries.

While the chicken was superb, I have to admit that the overall experience left me a bit wanting. My favorite Peruvian place in the city, Granja de Oro, offers chicken that is almost as good on its best days, along with tasty yuca fries and spicy sauces. Otherwise though, El Pollo Rico has some of the best chicken around, and that's what you're looking for, right?

Rating: 3 stars
Recommended: Chicken, duh.


El Pollo Rico (also in Wheaton)
932 N Kenmore St
Arlington, VA 22201
(703) 522-3220

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Las Canteras - It's aight

Some time ago, Las Canteras struck the neighborhood with such promise as a more upscale ethnic, sit-down restaurant that Adams Morgan was just dying for. (Lauriol Plaza doesn't count because for some reason the ethnic label doesn't apply and it's not in Adams Morgan.) Unfortunately, after a few visits, I can't say that Las Canteras offers more value than the numerous Peruvian food shanties around town.

Las Canteras reminds me of El Chelan, that old (by DC standards) Peruvian stalwart downtown favored by IMF/WB jet-setters. The quality of food is similar although the service and prices are more favorable than at El Chelan. The wait staff is friendly and efficient. Ask, and they will help guide you to recommended dishes, favorites, and potentially tricky items (i.e. spicy).

The mixed seafood ceviche was pretty good, but for my next visit, I eagerly ordered my favorite Peruvian dish, Lomo Saltado, a holy union of beef, french fries, tomatoes, soy sauce and other food trinkets. Unfortunately, it was terrible. The chef must have been high on cooking fumes because there was far too much soy sauce in the dish, and it just seemed to lack that special Peruvian greasiness that binds all the ingredients together. The guava-flavored flan was rich and flavorful, but a bit too dense for my flan preferences.

If you want Peruvian food in a nice setting, give Las Canteras a shot. For me, it's worth revisiting to check out some of their other dishes.

Otherwise, if you want damn good and cheap Lomo Saltado, supremely juicy roasted chicken, and light, caramely flan, the amazing La Granja de Oro is just 3 blocks away.

Rating: 2 out of 4 stars
Recommended: Ceviche?

Las Canteras
2307 18th St NW
Washington, DC 20009
202-265-1780

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