Saturday, November 6, 2010

Food Review: Tomatillo Tacqueria - The Forgotten Tacos of Dupont

Lost in the food truck craze of the past year has been one of the more novel street vendors to hit DC recently. Tomatillos Tacqueria, serving tacos and burritos during lunch, opened late last year just south of Dupont Circle in the window of the Big Hunt. Yup, that's right. You stand outside of the window of a dive bar, hand over some bills, and proprietor George Grau puts together your order in front of you. In a window. Got it?

I tried Tomatillos last year when it opened, and I found the tacos (3 for $6) to be just OK. Maybe my expectations were too great and I was half expecting some Mexican granny to be working the tortilla press. Returning again a year later, however, I experienced some much improved Tex-Mex cooking. I ordered my 3 tacos with a different meat in each one--pork, beef, and chicken. Add some not-too-smooth guacamole and other toppings if you please (various salsas, onions, queso fresco, and plenty of lime), and you have some of the best tacos in town. (Although I have yet to make it out to Tacqueria La Placita, which is on my hit list.)

The corn tortillas (two of 'em per taco) are a bit thicker than the traditional ones used in more authentic Mexican tacos, but I'm a friend of more carbs, especially when it allows for more fillings! In any case, the meats featured enough char and seasoning to counter the extra heaviness of their surroundings, especially when topped with the punchy tomatillo and habenero salsas. I do recommend that you request the salsas be applied with a lighter touch, to better taste the meats (and to save your lap). I haven't tried the burritos yet, but with tacos this good, I don't feel like I'm missing out.

Tomatillo is only open during the week from 11:30 until 2pm, and unlike those nomadic food trucks, this street vendor stays in one spot. I'm actually feeling a bit foolish for having pretty much forgotten about Tomatillo Tacqueria while waiting in ridiculous lines for korean tacos and lobster rolls, and I won't make that mistake again.

Rating: 3 stars (out of 4)
Price: $ - Cheap
Recommended: Tacos


Tomatillo Tacqueria
1347 Connecticut Ave NW
Washington, DC 20036
Neighborhood: Dupont
Metro: Dupont
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