ShopHouse: Chipotle goes Asian in Dupont (First Bite)

Metro-accessible banh mi.

This weekend, I checked out the much-discussed new Asian concept from Chipotle: ShopHouse. It’s the first and only location planned currently, and it had a soft-opening in Dupont Circle last week. The food is supposedly inspired by Southeast Asian street food, combined with Chipotle’s tenet of sourcing responsibly grown ingredients while churning out orders quickly like widgets.

The space is pretty spare, but the kitchen is astonishingly open to viewing while placing your order. There didn't appear to be a separate kitchen for food prep so you can see everything that the cooks are doing.

Similar to Chipotle’s brand of Mexican, you pick your base--either rice or noodles--and then add your protein and customize your topics. I wasn’t expecting to like the place, given Chipotle’s calorie and sodium bombs/burritos, but the food was veggie-centric, seemingly healthy, and came with a surprising amount of heat and complex Asian flavors for a fast food joint. 

Even more exciting, ShopHouse features Vietnamese banh mi sandwiches on the menu (the super-trendy yuppie food this year). While these were by no means authentic banh mi (as authentic as banh mi in the US go), my sandwich managed to supply that magical mix of french bread, grilled meats, and tangy pickled vegetables. The masterful but simple touch was adding basil to the assortment of pickled vegetables on top. While the bread is definitely softer than the crustier french baguettes that are usually employed in Vietnamese eateries, I am not opposed to bread that doesn't massacre your mouth. And who cares about authenticity when you have basil and metro-accessible banh mi.

Given the Chipotle prices, quick service, and seemingly healthy options, I will be returning regularly.

Rating: 3 stars (out of 4)
Price: $ - Cheap
Recommended: Banh mi with meatballs

ShopHouse
1516 Connecticut Ave NW
Washington, DC 20036
Neighborhood: Dupont
Metro: Dupont
Website | Google Maps | Washingtonian | Yelp

Food Review: Tomatillo Tacqueria - The Forgotten Tacos of Dupont

Lost in the food truck craze of the past year has been one of the more novel street vendors to hit DC recently. Tomatillos Tacqueria, serving tacos and burritos during lunch, opened late last year just south of Dupont Circle in the window of the Big Hunt. Yup, that's right. You stand outside of the window of a dive bar, hand over some bills, and proprietor George Grau puts together your order in front of you. In a window. Got it?

I tried Tomatillos last year when it opened, and I found the tacos (3 for $6) to be just OK. Maybe my expectations were too great and I was half expecting some Mexican granny to be working the tortilla press. Returning again a year later, however, I experienced some much improved Tex-Mex cooking. I ordered my 3 tacos with a different meat in each one--pork, beef, and chicken. Add some not-too-smooth guacamole and other toppings if you please (various salsas, onions, queso fresco, and plenty of lime), and you have some of the best tacos in town. (Although I have yet to make it out to Tacqueria La Placita, which is on my hit list.)

The corn tortillas (two of 'em per taco) are a bit thicker than the traditional ones used in more authentic Mexican tacos, but I'm a friend of more carbs, especially when it allows for more fillings! In any case, the meats featured enough char and seasoning to counter the extra heaviness of their surroundings, especially when topped with the punchy tomatillo and habenero salsas. I do recommend that you request the salsas be applied with a lighter touch, to better taste the meats (and to save your lap). I haven't tried the burritos yet, but with tacos this good, I don't feel like I'm missing out.

Tomatillo is only open during the week from 11:30 until 2pm, and unlike those nomadic food trucks, this street vendor stays in one spot. I'm actually feeling a bit foolish for having pretty much forgotten about Tomatillo Tacqueria while waiting in ridiculous lines for korean tacos and lobster rolls, and I won't make that mistake again.

Rating: 3 stars (out of 4)
Price: $ - Cheap
Recommended: Tacos

Tomatillo Tacqueria
1347 Connecticut Ave NW
Washington, DC 20036
Neighborhood: Dupont
Metro: Dupont
Website | Washington City Paper | Washington Post | Yelp

A Second Look: Ipoh

Roti canai is sooo good, and everyone I know likes it. Can it be so hard? Why aren't there roti canai vendors on every street corner? A big pot of chicken curry, and whatever they use to cook that crispy, flaky, chewy pancake. Food cart entrepreneurs take note!

Until someone implements my fantastic business ideas, Ipoh does as fine a roti canai as you'll find anywhere in DC. It's only a tad spicy, too much so for A-lo's delicate innards, but nothing your average curry-friendly fellow can't handle. With excellent green curry and pad thai, and some easily avoidable misses like the mango chicken (life tip: in the daring game of pan-asian menu navigation, "mango" is always a minus, and "crispy" a massive plus), Ipoh should be dominating the Woodley Park asian delivery scene. If they do a good General Tso's, I can finally say a sweet goodbye to Mr. Chen's.

Rating: 3 stars
Recommended: Roti canai, green curry, pad thai


Ipoh Asian Cuisine

2625 Connecticut Avenue NW, 2nd FL

Washington, DC 20008

Get Directions

(202) 332-3636

• Yelp

El Pollo Rico - Does it Live Up to the Hype?

Frequented by both cops and models, Arlington's El Pollo Rico is known as the place in DC for Peruvian-style rotisserie chicken. After having sampled a few of its competitors around town, I finally made it out to Arlington with Mistress KGB, our photographer, and Tintin in tow, eager to find out if El Pollo's chicken wares were worth the raves.

None of us had been to El Pollo Rico before, and a friend had described the exterior as resembling that of a dry cleaner, which surprisingly turned out to be a spot on observation. The industrial illusion turned out to be appropriate, as inside, the lines were long and the counter-staff were churning out chickens like a factor assembly line. Place your order–quarter, half, or whole–and bam, it's plopped down almost immediately in front of you.

Now normally, such quickly-produced food would warrant some suspicion. Perhaps these chicks had been sitting under a heat lamp and all the moisture had been sucked out. But alas, the food lived up to the hype. This chicken was thoroughly juicy, almost bordering on being too moist. The rotisserie flavors were strong and blunt, with a surprising, tangy edge that I hadn't experienced so fully at other chicken joints.

Tintin and I agreed that the chicken was indeed really good, making it easy for El Pollo Rico's chicken to rank as the best I've had in DC. Mistress KGB concurred, but claimed her favorite place in Falls Church produced equally good food.

Unfortunately, the accoutrements disappointed slightly. No traditional yuca fries were offered; instead stock french fries were served in their place. Normally, Cisco fries (if that's what they were) aren't my idea of good cooking, but these seem to have been cooked/thawed in the same grease and seasonings as the chicken, so they were surprisingly serviceable.

The coleslaw was forgettable, but the sauces were downright terrible. Almost more than the main dishes, I love the little green and white sauces that come with Peruvian fast food. I have no idea what they're called, but I expect them to be savory and spicy. The sauces at El Pollo Rico were too thick, bland, and almost inedible. Steer clear and opt for some ketchup instead, if you need some sauce for your fries.

While the chicken was superb, I have to admit that the overall experience left me a bit wanting. My favorite Peruvian place in the city, Granja de Oro, offers chicken that is almost as good on its best days, along with tasty yuca fries and spicy sauces. Otherwise though, El Pollo Rico has some of the best chicken around, and that's what you're looking for, right?

Rating: 3 stars
Recommended: Chicken, duh.


El Pollo Rico (also in Wheaton)

932 N Kenmore St

Arlington, VA 22201

Get Directions

(703) 522-3220

• WaPo Listing & Map
• Washingtonian - Best Cheap Eats
• Yelp
  

Corn fungus...it's what's for dinner. (Super Tacos)

Sir Noshalot Says:
At least it should be if you find yourself in Adams Morgan, near Super Tacos and Bakery, née Pepito's II. Black and slimy generally goes on my "do not eat" list, but huitlacoche is an exception, an earthy, savory Mexican delicacy. The name's Aztec for "raven shit," but don't let that deter you; near as I can tell, it refers to the shit-eating grin you'll have as you savor each bite. It's packed into Super's quesadilla Mexicana along with sweet corn, oozing queso fresco, and a tangy green salsa. The masa wrapper can be a little too tough, but this is a minor annoyance compared to the luscious mess within.

Rating: 4 out of 4 blight-ridden kernels
Recommended: quesadilla Mexicana, carnitas taco


According to A-lo:
Once upon a time, Pepitos II was my reliable go-to shack for cheap Mexican fare in Adams Morgan. A name change to Super Tacos seems to have wrought more than just superficial evolution. I'm not sure if the joint is under new ownership, but the consistency of the food has unfortunately become suspect. However, that's not to say that you can't get some very satisfying Mexican food here, but be warned that results may vary.

My favorite item used to be the carnitas tacos, which were crispy, juicy, and flavorful. The carnitas tacos are still very good, but they're now a bit too dense and lack that magical crispyness that previously elevated them to one of my favorite foods in the city. The tacos are still better, in my opinion, than those found at Taqueria Distrito Federal in Columbia Heights, which are slightly overrated.

As Sir Noshalot describes, the Quesadillas Mexicans are indeed worthy of purchasing, although I'm less smitten with the huitlacoche—it's different and tasty but needs some more punch. I'm more partial to the gorditas which are perfectly fried with a remarkably flavorful meat filling.

Overall, Super Tacos is still the place for fast, tasty, and cheap Mexican in the city. It's located in Adams Morgan, so you can't ask for a more convenient location. Just be sure to load up on the free sauces, and if you have a bad experience, don't be discouraged from trying the same dish again. I'll be sure to report back in case they regain their previously stellar touch.

Rating: 3 stars
Recommended: Carnitas tacos, gorditas, Quesadillas Mexicanas


Super Tacos and Bakery
1762 Columbia Rd. NW
Washington, DC 20009
202-232-7121 (they deliver!)

WaPo Listing & Map