Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Las Canteras - It's aight

Some time ago, Las Canteras struck the neighborhood with such promise as a more upscale ethnic, sit-down restaurant that Adams Morgan was just dying for. (Lauriol Plaza doesn't count because for some reason the ethnic label doesn't apply and it's not in Adams Morgan.) Unfortunately, after a few visits, I can't say that Las Canteras offers more value than the numerous Peruvian food shanties around town.

Las Canteras reminds me of El Chelan, that old (by DC standards) Peruvian stalwart downtown favored by IMF/WB jet-setters. The quality of food is similar although the service and prices are more favorable than at El Chelan. The wait staff is friendly and efficient. Ask, and they will help guide you to recommended dishes, favorites, and potentially tricky items (i.e. spicy).

The mixed seafood ceviche was pretty good, but for my next visit, I eagerly ordered my favorite Peruvian dish, Lomo Saltado, a holy union of beef, french fries, tomatoes, soy sauce and other food trinkets. Unfortunately, it was terrible. The chef must have been high on cooking fumes because there was far too much soy sauce in the dish, and it just seemed to lack that special Peruvian greasiness that binds all the ingredients together. The guava-flavored flan was rich and flavorful, but a bit too dense for my flan preferences.

If you want Peruvian food in a nice setting, give Las Canteras a shot. For me, it's worth revisiting to check out some of their other dishes.

Otherwise, if you want damn good and cheap Lomo Saltado, supremely juicy roasted chicken, and light, caramely flan, the amazing La Granja de Oro is just 3 blocks away.

Rating: 2 out of 4 stars
Recommended: Ceviche?

Las Canteras
2307 18th St NW
Washington, DC 20009
202-265-1780

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