Thursday, February 26, 2009

El Pollo Rico - Does it Live Up to the Hype?

Frequented by both cops and models, Arlington's El Pollo Rico is known as the place in DC for Peruvian-style rotisserie chicken. After having sampled a few of its competitors around town, I finally made it out to Arlington with Mistress KGB, our photographer, and Tintin in tow, eager to find out if El Pollo's chicken wares were worth the raves.

None of us had been to El Pollo Rico before, and a friend had described the exterior as resembling that of a dry cleaner, which surprisingly turned out to be a spot on observation. The industrial illusion turned out to be appropriate, as inside, the lines were long and the counter-staff were churning out chickens like a factor assembly line. Place your order–quarter, half, or whole–and bam, it's plopped down almost immediately in front of you.

Now normally, such quickly-produced food would warrant some suspicion. Perhaps these chicks had been sitting under a heat lamp and all the moisture had been sucked out. But alas, the food lived up to the hype. This chicken was thoroughly juicy, almost bordering on being too moist. The rotisserie flavors were strong and blunt, with a surprising, tangy edge that I hadn't experienced so fully at other chicken joints.

Tintin and I agreed that the chicken was indeed really good, making it easy for El Pollo Rico's chicken to rank as the best I've had in DC. Mistress KGB concurred, but claimed her favorite place in Falls Church produced equally good food.

Unfortunately, the accoutrements disappointed slightly. No traditional yuca fries were offered; instead stock french fries were served in their place. Normally, Cisco fries (if that's what they were) aren't my idea of good cooking, but these seem to have been cooked/thawed in the same grease and seasonings as the chicken, so they were surprisingly serviceable.

The coleslaw was forgettable, but the sauces were downright terrible. Almost more than the main dishes, I love the little green and white sauces that come with Peruvian fast food. I have no idea what they're called, but I expect them to be savory and spicy. The sauces at El Pollo Rico were too thick, bland, and almost inedible. Steer clear and opt for some ketchup instead, if you need some sauce for your fries.

While the chicken was superb, I have to admit that the overall experience left me a bit wanting. My favorite Peruvian place in the city, Granja de Oro, offers chicken that is almost as good on its best days, along with tasty yuca fries and spicy sauces. Otherwise though, El Pollo Rico has some of the best chicken around, and that's what you're looking for, right?

Rating: 3 stars
Recommended: Chicken, duh.


El Pollo Rico (also in Wheaton)
932 N Kenmore St
Arlington, VA 22201
(703) 522-3220